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Rock 'n' Roll lubrication

Rock 'n' Roll lubrication

The Cycle Clinic is the UK importer and distributor of Rock n Roll Lubrication. These products are the best lubes and greases for your bike. Trade customers visit the b2b site. 

The Rock 'n' Roll Range explained

Lubes;

Absolute Dry - for road use keeps your chain very clean

Extreme - a dry lube for CX/Gravel/MTB use in wetter conditions, even motorcross bikes.

Gold - a dry lube for road, CX/Gravel and MTB use. Makes shifting a slick as possible and keeps drive train friction to a minimum. Even suitable for some motor cycles.

Holy Cow - A very persistent wet lube. For road, CX/Gravel, MTB and anything chain driven including  some motorcycles. 

Grease

Super web - for bearings

Super coat - for bushings and pivots - keeps them quiet

Super slick - ideal for suspension overhauls or where a thin grease is a must

Red Devil - the general all purpose grease (for threads e.t.c)

Other products

Cable magic - you want slick cables well this is how you get that.

Nipple cream - For wheel builders 

Miracle Red De-greaser - for cleaning your hands, clothes and bike of greasy paw prints and stains.

Honing Oil - for sharpening knives

Socks - yes Rock 'n' Roll socks made by Defeet.

How the lube  works and how to use it.

The formulation goes deep down into the chain and traps any dirt. Then, with the energy of the chain freewheeling backwards, the dirt and grit floats to the surface so you can wipe it all off, leaving a new and clean application of lube inside the chain, where it’s needed. The lube down inside the chain creates a protective membrane to seal out dirt and moisture from the moving parts of the chain. As well as holding in place the best lube on the planet, for longer chain life, super smooth shifting and pedaling. 
 Bicycles, being on rubber tires, are not grounded, making the bicycle a static electricity machine. As the bicycle rolls along, positive charge build up will bring dirt and dust particles from the road onto the bike. The bike will discharge and do it all over again, bring up more dirt. Ever wonder why you have a perfect dust line on the front of your fork blades or on the cable housings. That’s how the bike gets dirty on the road, on dry days. The dirt is also going to stick to whatever is sticky on the bike. Of course, the chain is the number one spot. Road bikes generally tend to pick up more dirt from the discharge, so a thicker, dryer membrane is needed. On the other hand, the mountain bike needs something that can take lots of dust, and/or muddy slop being kicked up on the chain from the front wheel. With water crossing, too!

A Few Tips!

  • Put the chain on the big ring in the front, and the small cog on the back.
  • Apply the lube on the chain, over the top of the cog. Let a nice flow of lube go onto the chain (don’t be cheap). Remember you’re going to clean and lube the chain in one step.
  • Freewheel the chain backwards, and wipe off all of the dirt and grit that comes up to the surface of the chain. Keep in mind, you can’t wipe off the chain too much, so make that chain shine!
  • Shift the chain off the big ring, so you can wipe off the chain ring, to clean up the little bit of residue left behind.
  • For best results, allow your chain to sit a few hours or lube the night before. However, if right after lubing, you have to ride, you have to ride, so go for it. Giving the lube a chance to set gives the lube a bit more life by allowing the protective membrane to fully set-up. Remember, to wipe off you chain after riding regardless if you’re going to re-lube or not. This keeps the chain clean and looking great!