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22 May

Tubeless tyre and rim compatibility how to fit them and make it work.

Posted by Bold Apps

Why tubeless, well lower pressures, more grip the possibility of self sealing punctures are all reason to use them. More space in your back pocket for important stuff like good is another. Gone are the days were I head out with 4 tubes in my back pocket. I am that unluckily.

Tubeless tyres have been around for a long time. Airliners landing gear have tubeless tyre at over 200psi so it not like tubeless tyres can't hold high pressures. While low pressure MTB tyres are more forgiving on the rims that can be used, the higher pressures in road tyres and the smaller air volume necessitates tighter tolerances. This is what this page is about. This is a generic tubeless tyre guide which is not brand specific or bike type specific. Tubeless tyres when done right are not faff. The faff starts when your setup is not really tubeless compatible.
What is tubeless compatibility?
Well think of a car wheel. When a car tyre punctures and flats, the tyre does not unseat from the rim. This is important because tubeless means tubeless all the time not done of the time.
A tubeless tyre that has flat but remains seated can be fixed externally most of the time permanently. This is alot easier if your not having to try to get the tyre seated at the side of the road.
A tubeless compatible retains the tyre well enough that it can be ridden flat or with very little air (5 to 10 psi) . Having done this for 10 miles then reinflating the tyre after fixing it, it certainly is a useful get out of puncture jail free card.
So what is about some rims that retains tyres while other let the tyre unseat with no pressure. Well let's start with a rim cross section.
The two images are of a Kinlin rim and a Mavic UST rim. Both are very tubeless compatible. All tubeless rim have the centre channel so when the tyre is mounted it sits in here. When you initially inflate the tyre is forced up to the larger diameter shelf. Now if the tyre is mounted to the Kinlin rim the bead moves under the bead hook and cannot unseat because the shelf is not flat. A Mavic UST rim use a bump next to the channel to ensure the tyre cannot unseat.

Mavic UST 

 

 

BORG/Kinlin XR22T/26T/31T

I hope you see what is in common. The rounded well sized bead hook that does not cut into the tyre and the uplifted inside edge of the bead hook is also an important characteristic. 

Sadly not every rim conforms. Here is a rim without these features. The tyre maybe retained but only by friction. This means if you have to plug the tyre it might unseat on you. Personally this sort of rim is not one I would define a tubeless compatible. You can run them tubeless of course but I am picky. The bead hook on this rim is also a bit small.

So the guide covers both types of rims. Those that retain the tyre and those that don't. Of course it is assumed you are using a tubeless compatible tyre. If your not and get faff well that was your choice.
Making your tyres tubeless ready. If you have a tubeless compatible rim that has spoke holes you will need to fit tubeless tape. Two complete layers is required normally. Some rims can be a bit undersized and need more layers. More layer will normally insure the tyre retaining features do your back to friction alone holding the tyre in place. The tape should be pulled tight when fitting and pressed in place ( I use my thumb) do that the tape is bubble free and conforms to the rim.
On rims with deep channels this is harder to achieve than on rims with shallower channels. Of course a deeper channel can make tyre fitting easier. Next make a small hole with a sharp point coming up from the valve hole. Then using the closed presets valve push it through the tape and use a rubber mallet to tap the valve in place. Thread the collar tight and bingo the rim is sealed. The tape should be 2 to 4mm wider than the internal width depending on the depth of the channel.
How to mount a tyre and what to expect.
A tubeless tyre on a tubeless compatible rim should be fairly tight. As a rule of thumb if it can be mounted by handed it's probably too easy. First Make up a bottle of dilute soapy water and dribble over the rim. This is essential as it get everywhere. Mount the tyre and chase the slack before using tyre levers. Fitting the tyre dry is a mistake as if it tight you can damage the bead and end up with the join between the bead and the tyre carcass failing and separation. The tighter the tyre fit is the more secure it will be. This is a good thing.
Once the tyre is mounted, inflate. If a floor pump does not get the tyre up, try compressed air. A CO2 cartridge will also work. The tyre should seat and seal. Not all tyre Tim combination pop and ping when this is achieved. Inflate to a pressure where there are no low spots in the tyre. Let the air out. Then remove the valve core and inject 40ml if sealant for a 25ml tyre. Bigger tyres can use more. Then inflate again. If the rim retains the tyre this will be clean. If the rim dies not retain the tyre s tight fitting tyre means you won't have to use compressed air to reinflate and that less messy and better for the sealant.
Which sealant I hear you ask. There are three kinds.
1) latex free sealant
2) natural latex sealants.
3) artificial latex sealants.
My own experience tells me for road use the artificial latex sealants seal the best at higher pressures. Examples include, Effetto Mariposa, Orange Seal, MaXalami MaXSeal. These simply seal the best at higher pressures.
Now you should not be relying on the sealant. Its not going to seal everything. You also may find one day, as I have that the sealant had dried up and then you puncture and the tyre leave you feeling flat.
Now if your tyre is not retained by the rim or weakly retained, your best of packing a tube, a portable set of pliers ( to get the valve collar undone) and levers.
If your rim retains the tyre and if it is hard to push of by hand, don't bother packing a tube as you may find very hard to get it in anyway. Instead carry tyre plugs.
These tacky butyl rubber fibrious strips can repair a tyre permanently or fix a big slice well enough to limp home. Carry what I do, 1.5mm and 3.5mm thick plugs. Most punctures can be fixed permanently with these. If the plugs wants to push out use a lower pressure to get home. often the sealant will glue the plug so after 24hrs it can be more firmly held to allow normal pressures. If you get a 1cm sidewall slice then don't fret. A big plug or two can seal the hole and inflate to a low pressure and get home if somewhere safe. You'd be surprised how far you can go on 20 psi with plugs sticking out of the side. I carry a blade to cut the fat worms down before inserting. The MaXalami tubeless repair kit Had the two thickness of tacky plugs. You may think that the fat plugs are for MTB tyres and that's what the manufacturers say but I have found otherwise.
Through the life of a road tubeless tyre I generally end up with plugs shoved in the sidewall through the tread and they are in there for a few thousand km. I should really stop riding road tyres off road and down filthy lanes in winter but really where the fun in being sensible.
My tyre is deflating or loosing air over night? 
First of all check the simple stuff. Remove the valve core and seal up the the seal and reinsert. Check the collar is tight. If this is the case and the tyre is not holed you can do one of two things.
1) if your confident your taping is good add fresh sealant. This can seal up small holes in tyres.
2) leaks can be caused by poor taping. Time to do again.
One final thing. Leave a tubeless tyre in place. It takes very little bead stretch for it be difficult to refit so remove only if you really have to.
Tubeless tyres are not to be feared and if you do encounter faff it's probably user error. This guide has been written because I have learnt the hard way so you have an easier time.
Read this blog post on how to fix tubeless tyres at the road side. 

 

12 May

New IRC tyres - Gravel and road.

Posted by Bold Apps

IRC have two new tyres coming. The first is the IRC Boken. This is a 700c 36mm or 40mm wide gravel tyre for that adventure rider in you. 

The thread pattern and compound means there is a good grip. Various local testers are tyring them out at present and I have many sample tyre here. If you want to try them for the cost of fitting I can let serious gravel riders have a go. The more feedback I get the better.

IRC Roadlite X-guard is IRC's latest road tyre for inner tubes. It has a dual compound and a puncture protection belt. The centre compound is harder than the one used on the tyres shoulders. So low rolling resistance in a stright line but when banking there is grip. The casing is nice and supple too. 

 

10 Apr

Campagnolo 12 speed is here

Posted by Bold Apps

Campagnolo are not stuck in the padt. In may (expected) the first record and super record mechanical 12 speed groupsets will arrive. This shop has one if each reserved. More can be. If you want one read on and contact the shop for pricng. Prices are similar to the current groups. The disc brake and EPS components will be released later in the year.

 

The Super Record groupset is the best Campagnolo mechanical transmission. It is the choice that even top professionals rely upon for improved performance, reliability and precision.

The Super Record groupset is also extremely lightweight yet very durable. This new 12 speed incarnation is the very pinnacle of Campagnolo® innovation and the technologies, materials and craftsmanship with which the groupset is built, put it in a category of its own: Super Group.

Ergopowers

Campagnolo shifters have always been a one of the most innovative parts of the group set due to their near-perfect ergonomics. Campagnolo have refined the 12x models even further, slightly angling the brake lever blades to allow for greater braking control over rougher surfaces. The curve in the blade is more pronounced, offering greater comfort and aerodynamics. The groups are made even more accessible thanks tothree levels of adjustment where the lever can be set for riders with a different reach. The hoods have also been given an update and the Vari-Cushion technology has been further improved allowing Campagnolo to create a hood with different thicknesses giving greater grip, comfort and water dispersion. The shifters have also been enlarged for greater shifting control, with the upshift lever being brought closer to the brake lever blade creating a more aesthetically pleasing and easier to use shifter.

Inner and Outer Cables

Campagnolo have manufactured completely new inner and outer cables. The new versions drastically reduce friction and ensure a much longer life. Braking and shifting is impressive thanks to the new technology. Smoothness is maintained even when internally routed through the handlebars.

Front Derailleur

The front derailleur gives quicker and more immediate upshifting thanks to its new design and trajectory angle. The front derailleur also uses a dual position cable grip bolt to allow for use of tyres up to 32mm following current market trends. The inner cage shape has also been re-designed to enhance shifting fluidity and allow for accurate and fast movement.

Rear Derailleur

Dramatically different and elegant design for the rear derailleur produced in an ultra-light technopolymer with reinforced long strand UD carbon fibre. 3D Embrace technology is huge step forward from current derailleurs function. When you see how the derailleur shifts, you’ll notice that the jockey wheels are incredibly close to every single sprocket giving smooth, instant shifts and maximum efficiency. The derailleur also weighs less but maintains the same rigidity and durability. The trajectory curve has been optimized for 11-29 and 11-32 cassettes. A new upper body return spring has been redesigned to absorb road vibration and protects the derailleur from violent movement on the road. It can also fit direct mount and and standard systems making it easier to remove the wheel during the maintenence..

Cassette

With the additional sprocket on the cassette the need for a range of cassettes is eliminated. The extra gear allows for single tooth increments all the way up to the 7th sprocket. The shift curve on these new cassettes is so much smoother than competitor 11 speed brands. The cassette is an identical width to the 11-speed versions so they are compatible with all existing Campagnolo freehub bodies. The cassette's last two triplets are CNC'd out of one piece of steel for optimum stiffness Alloy spacers have been used for improved durability.

Chainset

The chainsets in both groups are a smoother, more aerodynamic design than the previous version with incredible aestheticics. The carbon spider on the Super Record version stretches all the way out to the chain ring close to the teeth, creating a cleaner more aesthetically pleasing and more aerodynamic design. The hollow carbon construction offers a low weight without sacrificing stiffness or reliability. The bolt design has also changed from four to eight, which enhances the chainsets stiffness further. Both models will be available in 165mm to 175mm lengths and compact, semi compact and race chainring options.

Chain

The chain is one of the most complicated components when redesigning a groupset simply due to the narrow width and strength required. Campagnolo’s new chain is thinner, lighter, engages quicker and offers the exact same durability as an 11-speed chain.

Brakes

The Super Record brakes have been completely upgraded. Campagnolo have created a powerful new option which is designed to work with up to 28mm tyres and are far more aerodynamic. The lever movement and bearings are completely new, this aid in modulation and increases smoothness. Braking power has notably increased.

08 Mar

BORG30 MTB hookless Disc brake wheels -1280g/pair

Posted by Bold Apps

Well testing has begun for these. The first test set are 29er 24 spoke. The rims are 30mm wide and 25mm internal width with a modern hookless design.

The rims are light at 360g each. The production wheels will be laced up with Sapim CX-rays but these have Sapim lasers. Nipple washers have been used and black alloy nipples.

The hubs are the lovely Carbon Ti. 4 pawl freehub with a 56T ratchet ring made from titanium. there is a 17mm axle and these are the lightest reliable hubs you can buy. 100x12, 100x15mm, 110x15mm, Lefty, RS 110x15mm, 142x12mm and 148x12mm standard are supported along with old fashioned Q/R. 

The wheels are fitted with Carbon Ti disc brake rotors. 140, 160 and 180mm can be requested and Carbon Ti Titanium rotor fixing bolts are used. 

IRC tyres will of course be available. The ones fitted are the IRC Mythos 54x622mm and they are actually 53.2mm wide. The tyres inflated easily without sealant and lock in place firmly. 

Carbon wide and stiff. Simply what not to like. RRP ~£1700 with the Carbon Ti rotors and Ti bolts . £1300 without rotors and bolts.

Weight of front bare 595g but with 160mm rotor, Ti bolts, tape and valve 698g.

Weight of rear bare is 684g but  with 160mm rotor, Ti bolts, tape and valve 787g.

So that sub 1500g wheels tubeless ready with rotors. 

14 Dec

What wheels i ride and why

Posted by Bold Apps

I have alot of bikes and that means even more wheels. None a factory made all I have built myself. 

Lets start with the MTB's. 

Kenesis FF29 

Carbon Tubular 330g rims 28H front and rear laced with sapim laser spokes, alloy nipples and Miche disc brake hubs. These were there first road/CX disc brake hubs and they have done just fine. I run Dugast MTB tubulars on these. Currently a fast bird ori front and an enrst ori rear. These are tubeless tubular tyres so the best of all worlds. Wheelset weight is 1417g I could save a bit of weight by rebuilding with carbon ti hubs but whats the point they are light enough, very stiff and have not gone wrong yet. total mileage 15/10/2017 5200km. They have been ridden in all year round with either Dugast or Geax tubular tyres. I have a stash of Schwalbe Racing Ralphs as well bought cheap of a german website so I will keep rolling for some time to come. 

The tubular tyres offer grip that normal tubeless tyres in 2.0" width can't deliver. I Don't have space for a tyre bigger than a 2.2" so a 2.0" tyre gives me more mud clearance. Punctures have not been a big problem as I have been able to ride on a flat tub when i have punctured. The Dugast Ori tyre though are superb in every way, light and oh so comfortable. Grip is stellar. 

If I was building again I would use 24 spoke hubs/rims but I am not so i won't. 

Gary Fisher Ferrous

This bike is set up as a single speed and has two wheelsets. 

Winter/mud wheels Velocity blunt 35 (35mm wide rims), XTR M975 hubs and Sapim Race spokes/brass nipples. Tyres are quite heavy Geax Barro mud 2.3" with schwalbe pro core. Weight who cares I have these infalted to 12 psi front and 14 psi rear. Grip and control over rough ground is very controlled which is what I want. Grip in the mud is good too but there is not of clearance with it is claggy and my wheels can jam in the fields if there is straw mixed with clay. Well I suppose bricks are made of that so the bike may not be too blame. 

Summer wheels 32H Ryde trace trail 25 (25mm internal width), sapim laser spokes/alloy nipples XTR M985 hubs. Weight 1650g. The rims are asymmetric and the wheels are very stiff but the rims do not accept tubeless specific tyres. I can only fit conti. i normally use Conti race kings or moutain Kings 2.2". I really want to fit IRC Serrac CX tyres and some of there other models but I can't unless I re-rim which I need to to turn them into BORG23/XTR wheelset. 

The wheels may force me to use tyres that are O.K but the wheels are very stiff and the ride well. 

I have some 29er Ambrosio Tubular Disk rims (yes that is how it is Ambrosio did the spelling). These are 32H and I need to build these up and mount the Geax Saguaro Tubs to these. 

Retro MTB wheels

Trek 8900 1992

26" Mavic X517 rims 28H, XTR M950 hubs silver Sapim race spokes and alloy nipples. I hardly ever ride this bike as the components cannot be replaced easily. 

Scott Pro Racing 1992?

26" 32H Mavic 117 front and 317 rear sapim laser spokes and Shimano XT M730/2 hubs. used a fair bit but not much now as modern MTB's are simply better.

I have a set of pair of wolber 26" MTB tubular rims. I need to build these up with a pair of XT M730/2 hubs i have. I have a pair of Geax Saguro tubulars (3 perhaps), 2 racing ralph and a pair of old Vittoria Avocet tubs. These tyres can be ridden at lower pressure (mid 20's PSI) and are therefore far more comfortable and controlable on rough ground. That is what stops me riding these old bikes. 

Road bikes

Pinarello Monviso

This lovely bike from the early 90's has a Dura Ace 8 speed groupset and has a wheelset that suits. 

32F/36R Ambrosio Nemesis rims, Sapim laser spokes, brass nipples and Shimano Dura Ace HB-7400/FH-7403 hubs. These are not light @1850g but the ride with Vittoria Pave tubulars is sublime. The Ambrosio rims are excellent all weather rims as the brake track is non machined. This means it wears at a much slower rate than machined sidewall rims. Wet braking is pretty good too. 

Traitor Exile

This is a wet weather winter club run bike. As such i have put the most inappropriate wheelset in this bike. I must fit something else.

20F/24R Pacenti V1 SL23 rims, sapim laser spokes front, race rear, alloy nipples and Royce carbon/Ti hubs drilled for 2:1 lacing. Yes that is hubs with Ti flanges and carbon shells. Frankly they are jewellery and are wasted on this bike. The wheels have IRC roadlite tubeless tyres. The ride is sublime and the wheels are really quite stiff. When the rims crack they will be built into a set of BORG50C wheels. Weight 1600g

Trek 2300

This is a bike I love riding. It is not that quick (my position is more upright on this bike to the extreme length of the headtube) but it is pleasent never the less. 

I have a couple of wheelsets for this bike and soon there will be a third. Tubular tyres are used with this bike. I find them quite dependable.

28F/28R HED Belgium  C2 tubular rims, sapim CX-ray spokes, silver Campagnolo record 1999-2006 hubs. Weight ~ 1530g. These wheels have Continental Competition 25mm tubular tyres which are durable and puncture resistant shame they are not that comfortable. The ride of these tubs is quite harsh. When I wear them out I will fit some IRC Formula pro team tubs. Maybe I will do that sooner than later. 

32F/32R FIR tubular rims, Sapim sprint spokes and Campagnolo Chorus hubs. weight is around 1600g. I use these wheels over winter and have a set of 25mm Gatorskin sprinter tubs fitted to them. The wheels are fine to ride but the tyres have a numbing feeling to the ride. If I find them time I will swap the tubs for something else. 

BORG38T carbon tubular wheels. 38mm deep 20.5mm wide 18F/24R silver sapim CX-ray spokes and Hope Ti Glide Glide hubs. Weight 1230g. There are a set of Veloflex made schwalbe tyres 22mm wide on them. Lovely wheels to ride although in the wind they do get caught a bit. 

yet to be built 32F/32R Velocity Escape rims, Silver sapim CX-ray or laser spokes, Campagnolo Chorus hubs 1999-2006 weight ~1500g. These will have a nice set of Dugast strada tubs fitted to them. 

1999 Klein Quantum

This is a mad bike so it get a mad wheelset. As the bike has a Shimano 7700 Dura Ace groupset it has to have matching hubs. 

So 12F/12R yes 12 spoke Dura Ace hubs laced to 88mm deep carbon rims with sapim Cx ray spokes laced 1x for the rear wheel. The wheelset weighs 1530g and has 22mm Continental GP4000sII tubular tyres fitted. the ride is fairly harsh and wider more supple tubs are needed. the wheels though are lovey to ride on. they dont feel quick but average speed when riding them is not slow either. They are simply mad wheels for a mad bike. 

 Look 795

This is the race/TT bike so it get the BORG50C wheels. 50mm deep 26.2mm wide. This set are built with Miche Primato hubs and are the first test set I built. They are currently used with IRC tubeless tyres. Weight 1650g and this set have over 10,000 miles on them. Even in strong winds the bike is stable. 

I have another set of these with Miche SWR hubs. weight is 1600g

Sannio -1991

This is an older steel bike with modern kit on it. It is a race bike really.

Currently there is a set of BORG22's on there but in 20F/24R spoke count. Tubeless tyres of course. Weight 1565g and they feel just right for this bike. 

Look KG221

This old bike has a set of wheels that I i would not want to build for anyone but me. 32F/32R Mavic GEL 280 rims (280g in weight), sapim race spokes and Novatec A291/F172 hubs. The wheels weigh under 1400g and they are wheel I ride gently on. They feel a bit flexy in tight bends at speed. How people raced on them I have no idea and I think i am way past the weight limit for these wheels. There are currently Vittoria Corsa SC 23mm tubular tyres on the bike. these wear out and puncture quite easily so they wont be on there for too long except I ride this bike only a few times every year. 

Alan 1981

This wheelset has the only hoops built by someone else. Mr Buick from Ipswich probably back int he 70's. 32F/32R Super Champion Arc De Ciel rims on Campagnolo Record hubs. They have 22mm Conti Gatorskin sprinter tyres on which must be replaced with Dugast tanwall strada tyres. These feel light and a whole lot stiffer than the Mavics above.

Vitus 992

For this bike which has a Mavic groupset a Mavic wheelset has been built with CXP14 rims and Mavic MR601 hubs. Weight is unknown I forgot to weigh them. I will have to ride this bike more to test IRC road clincher tyres. 

Hill climb special

This is my light weight hill climb bike. Wheels are currently BORG38T 38mm deep tubular wheels with Carbon Ti hubs that weigh 1020g. There is a lighter set I want to build with Titanium spokes and an Extralite rear hub and a M5 front. Rims will be probably be a shallow carbon tubular. This is more a to play about with how light I can go and still have a stiff reliable wheelset. Sub 900g is quite possible sub 800g is viable with compromises.

1948 Raleigh Record Ace

This is a fixed gear bike with 32F/40R wooden rims on 40's Solite hubs. the rims are not that round which is a shame so they have big Challange Strada 30mm tubulars on them. the hop is only noticeable at speeds I dare not ride at. 

Sarto

This bike has a 18f/24R wheelset using Miche supertype hubs and Pacenti SL23 V1 rims. The wheels weigh 1400g and are quite stiff. IRC tubeless tyres are fitted and the wheels. 

1962 Dawes Town bike

this needs an overhall with a dynamo hub front hub with drum brake and a 3 speed sturney archer hub rear with coaster brake. it is a town bike. currently it has wheels with a coaster brake rear only hence I don't ride it.

Genesis Equilibrium Disc

This is the commuter bike. It weighs 15kg with pannier and some load. It is often carries more load. It is used most days. so given the load you might expect high spoke count wheels but you would be wrong. 24F/24R Velocity aileron rims, sapim Cx-ray spokes and Novatec D711/D712 hubs. I built these a few years ago and they current have IRC tubeless tyres on them. The wheels weigh 1545g and are stiff and have over 10,000 km on them. I built them to find out if 24 spoke light disc brake wheels are reliable with load. they have passed that test. 

 

 




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